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Home Article DIY attached the accessory for charging the smartphone on the bike to the CBR250RR

DIY attached the accessory for charging the smartphone on the bike to the CBR250RR

DIY attached the accessory for charging the smartphone on the bike to the CBR250RR

All seats of recent cars are equipped with a USB power terminal as standard equipment or as an option, and it is natural that smartphones can be charged. On the other hand, there are not many motorcycles that have a USB power supply terminal from the beginning. It is not available in the unfortunate beloved Honda "CBR250RR". However, when riding a motorcycle, I often use my smartphone as a navigation system, and I always thought that it would be convenient if my smartphone could be charged with the electricity of the motorcycle. This time, I'm talking about attaching a USB power terminal to such a motorcycle. Moreover, without relying on the shop, on your own.

* This article is just an example. Please do DIY work at your own risk.

I want to charge my smartphone even on a motorcycle!

From the website of Daytona, a manufacturer of motorcycle supplies

If you go to a motorcycle specialty store, you can find many USB power supplies for motorcycles. Most of them are attached to the handlebar, but I'm worried about the feeling of being attached afterwards. Furthermore, in the case of CBR250RR, there is a problem that there is no handlebar in the first place.

From the introduction page of Daytona "Power Slender for Motorcycles USB Type-A 1 Port (5V 2.4A)"

After searching various things on the net, I found a USB power supply for motorcycles that was made thinner by arranging the USB connector vertically on the HP of Daytona, a major motorcycle accessory accessory! If this is the case, it seems that there is little feeling of retrofitting even if it is installed close to the switch box near the lever.

Daytona's USB power supply for motorcycles, "Slender USB," has a lineup of three types: a USB Type-A connector with 1 port and 2 ports, and a USB Type-C connector with 1 port. While the current output of the USB Type-A connector specification is 2.1A, the USB Type-C connector specification is compatible with USB PD and has a high output of up to 18W! It is impossible to charge a notebook PC, but it seems that it can also be used for quick charging of large-capacity mobile batteries. Above all, the width of the USB Type-C specification is 11 mm, which is 2.5 mm thinner than the USB Type-A.

Check the bike side immediately. The right hand side (brake lever side) does not seem to be able to be installed by any means. However, on the left hand side (clutch lever side), I found that there was a slight gap between the switch box and the lever mounting. When I measured this width with a monosashi, there seems to be a gap of 10 mm or more. In this case, there is little feeling of retrofitting, and even if the width is not enough, if you move the clutch lever a little, it seems quite so. The purchase is decided! Immediately online shopping.

The actual landing the next day. While grinning at the 11mm wide and MAX18W high-output characters written on the package, the moment I saw the back side where the Noh writing and product composition were written, I was upset.


Isn't it written that the width is 12 mm! "Which is correct!", Pulpunte with a notation error of 1 mm. Apparently, if the diameter of the handlebar is 25.4mm or less, it seems to use the handle clamp spacer attached to the product, but it seems that this width is 12mm.

I don't want to move the position of the clutch lever as much as possible, so I can only hope that it can be installed without using this spacer. Also, if it becomes necessary, it seems that measures such as scraping the protruding part of the spacer will be necessary.

Let's check what is included. About 50 cm ahead of the USB power supply, there is a DC-DC converter that is about two times larger than an AA battery. Perhaps this should be attached to the frame of the bike. Then connect to the vehicle side via the fuse box containing the mini fuse. The terminal shape is a so-called Giboshi type, and a Y lug or Faston terminal cable was prepared as an accessory.

The easiest way to connect is to insert the positive wire into the brake switch of the right hand brake lever and fasten the negative wire to the negative terminal of the battery or the bolt of the bike frame. It is a so-called back straight. However, this will cause the battery to run down. Also, looking at the manual, it seems that there is a way to interrupt the brake switch on the right hand side, but I did not understand it enough so I decided to refrain from doing it this time.

Therefore, I would like to install it by turning the key of the vehicle and interrupting the line (ACC) where electricity starts to flow. It may seem a little difficult, but if you don't make a mistake in the procedure, it won't be that difficult. Of course, even if the vehicle is damaged, it is at your own risk.

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